On arrival

It was about a week ago (the time difference plays havoc with my internal calendar) that we said goodbye to the vineyards and the outlaws, climbed aboard a Q300 and took the (relatively) short flight up to Auckland, where we tried to avoid the giant crocs

Giant Croc
giant croc at AKL

and, seeing as we had eight hours to kill before the flight out, hired a car for the day and drove up to Takapuna, where there’s a church that looks exactly like the one in Sione’s Wedding, and a view of Rangitoto

Rangitoto

that can’t be beat. Rangitoto is a dormant volcano, which means—as we told the Pawns—that it could blow any minute. That’s probably stretching it a bit, but the girls seemed completely unfazed by the thought of fire and brimstone and volcanic rocks hurling through the air and lava flows across the bay, and watched it intently for signs of activity.

albatross
Albatross

Then we drove back across the harbour bridge and went up One Tree Hill (the last time I was there, there was one tree on the top of the hill. It’s not there now, sadly). After that it was back to Auckland International and on board EK407—the flight which three days previously had doinked its tail taking off from Melbourne—for Dubai via Melbourne. Which is one hell of a long trip.

Dubai

But after a few hours in the lounge at Dubai we boarded a four-fifths empty 777 bound for London: after crossing the mouth of the Persian Gulf we flew up the side of Iran (which is surprisingly beautiful). I slept for an hour, and when I awoke we were approaching the Black Sea. I was too excited to sleep, and the flight was only seven hours, so I peered out of the window and watched Top Gear until the coast of Holland hove into sight. And then it was no time at all until we were overflying the rolling green hills and plains of east England

M11
This looks familiar

and circling London

Eye
No city like it

I start work on Monday next week: I’ll see you at the RI, twice, and all I have to do now is find somewhere to live.

I’m back. And I have an iPhone!

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Ongoing

The Valley

So.

I moved to Australia three years ago, with a suitcase full of hopes and plans. There’s been a number of significant events, and any number of photo opportunities.

But in a surprising — to me, at least — turn of events, I’m changing direction and leaving the bench. Tomorrow, my two week holiday in NZ ends and I’m getting on a plane to return to the UK: on 6th April I’ll be starting work at the Faculty of 1000, based in the centre of London.

In a strange kind of symmetry, I’m feeling just as apprehensive and excited as I did three years ago, with the same feeling of the ending of one era and the beginning of another. I will, as ever, keep you posted.

Three

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On the ‘loo

Vindaloo that is. Here’s my recipe, as I remember it from Pat Chapman’s Curry Club book.

Day One

  1. Kill your pig
  2. Dice about 7 lbs meat, trimmed of excess fat
  3. Put half aside for wimps children and wussies those who don’t like spicy food
  4. Visit every bloody supermarket in Blenheim looking for mint and fenugreek. End up buying growing mint in a pot and plan on hanging fire on the fenugreek until tomorrow, hoping the weirdy hippy shop will have some
  5. In an very old blender grind together a good lump of fresh ginger, half a dozen red chillis, several cloves of chopped garlic, a red pepper (capsicum) and about half a bottle of red wine (South African, cheapest we could find)
  6. Combine with the pork and in a non-metallic bowl marinate in the fridge overnight
  1. Find some powdered fenugreek in the cupboard, from the last time you were here, and prostitute your art:

Green masala paste

Blend (all amounts approximate)

  • A clump of fresh mint (~10 g)
  • a similarly-sized clump of fresh coriander (cilantro)
  • about a cubic inch of fresh ginger root
  • 1 tsp of powdered fenugreek
  • 1 tsp cloves
  • 1 tsp mustard powder
  • a red chilli/tsp mashed chilli
  • 1 tsp ground cumin
  • 1 tsp ground coriander
  • 1 tsp cardamom seeds
  • enough white vinegar to liquidize everything

(increase amounts if you’re planning on making enough for more than a couple of meals)

Then heat about 2 tbsp sesame oil and 4 tbsp olive oil in a karahi or wok, until very hot (but not smoking). Throw in 2–3 tsp turmeric, and then the green paste. Cook off the aqueous phase, stirring continuously. When it’s ready (just before the greenery starts turning brown) the paste will make a chup chup sound and if you remove it from the heat the oil will float to the top.

Pour the paste into clean, hot glass jars and cap off with some hot oil. Seal. Store in the fridge once opened.

Day Two

  1. Remove the marinade from the fridge and sniff… carefully
  2. Chop two brown onions finely, and in a large karahi or wok fry with 6–8 green chillis until the onions are browning
  3. Add ~ 1 tbsp (or more) green masala paste and a couple of tsp sugar, fry for a couple of minutes
  4. Add the marinaded pork and the liquid, stir, then transfer to a casserole dish
  5. Casserole at ~ 180°C for one to two hours, checking liquid level every 20 minutes or so (top up with red wine or ghee as necessary)
  6. Serve with basmati rice, naan bread, poppadoms or whatever you like, really. Cold milk is probably a good plan.
  1. Eat… carefully.
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On the Nature of faith: Part 2

It seems odd to me that the issue of faith versus science still gets so many people excited. Maybe there’s a deficit in my understanding of human nature, or maybe my optimism does, despite all my efforts, transcend my legendary cynicism. It’s been over ten years since Stephen Jay Gould talked about non-overlapping magisteria (a super read, actually; you’ve got an agnostic Jew and and a bunch of monks going what?) and still we have muppets claiming that science disproves faith, or that the Bible is a scientific textbook, or whatever.

But it’s still a problem. A scientist’s faith becomes known and people ask ‘But hasn’t evolution disproved God?’ or ‘Hasn’t science disproved the Bible?’ (they’re the polite versions) or something equally fatuous. And on the other side we get retards like the Canadian science minister thinking that evolution is a religion, and wastes of money like the Creation Museum (and before you say anything, such madness is not limited to North America. There’s a farm in Somerset which is dedicated to proving that the account in Genesis is literal fact).

No ‘side’ can entirely take the blame. As I said in Part 1 I’m not at all hopeful I can change minds but I think it might be useful to think about the causes of the conflict.

Let’s pick on the scientists first.

Scientists don’t understand science

Science is the study of the natural world. By definition it makes no comment on the supernatural. It’s not, pace Gould, even a case of ‘non-overlapping magisteria’: science doesn’t say that the supernatural doesn’t exist; rather it doesn’t even know that such a thing is possible. So to say in any way that science disproves God is nonsensical. The only even vaguely sensible question science can ask is “If there is a God and they interact with the tangible world as you claim, how?”.

But the thing that really bugs me is the supreme arrogance of biologists (and I write as one). It’s the least quantitative of all the real sciences, the squishiest of subjects and yet it’s biologists, primarily, who claim disproof of God/faith/the supernatural. Because, hey, we can explain life. As if any God worthy of the name couldn’t figure it out.

Cosmology, surely, is far more of a threat to faith than evolution, but we hear precious little about it (links, as ever, are welcome in the comments). Atheists and theists alike fall into the same trap: wanting to see (or not) the finger of God, to prove or otherwise. But this is little more than the ‘god of the gaps’ fallacy—the idea that we invoke a supernatural being to explain things that we can’t. The Large Hadron Collider, for example, will not show us where God moved to change, or to create—and if it did I would be suddenly uninterested in such a small god.

The thing is, people often make the mistake of assuming that the faithful invent a religion because they need to explain something—usually the natural world. And while it’s true that religions have and do spring up for this reason, it is not why people are christians. Scientists think that by showing how things happen they disprove a need for (a) God, and in doing so not only misunderstand human nature (the need for meaning which science can never give) but also an alarming lack of theological training. But that, really, is excusable: the blame really lies with the faithful. Scientists are pretty straightforward after all, and have only the evidence before them to go on.

The religious don’t understand theology

Creationism does not pit science against religion […], for no such conflict exists. Creationism does not raise any unsettled intellectual issues about the nature of biology or the history of life. Creationism is a local and parochial movement, powerful only in the United States among Western nations, and prevalent only among the few sectors of American Protestantism that choose to read the Bible as an inerrant document, literally true in every jot and tittle.
SJG

Creationists (and I include proponents of so-called ‘Intelligent Design’ in that) don’t understand science, obviously: but they also fail to understand faith. Creationism is used as a proof, as evidence for the existence of (a) God. (This is not the same as the ‘evidence’ I alluded to previously. There, and I got into trouble as I thought I might—but that’s probably my fault for not being totally clear—, I was saying that there is sufficient evidence to make faith a reasonable response, but I am certainly not claiming ‘proof’. That’s crazy talk.)

This is not a philosophical objection: I’m not saying that faith fails to be faith if there’s proof. I’m saying that if your ‘proof’ is shown to be false then you’re utterly screwed. So if you tie your faith to a ‘proof’ you actually end up trying to prove that your proof is true, rather than seeking out ‘truth’. Which is the cleft stick Creationists find themselves in.

Because, really, there is no reason to take the first few chapters of Genesis as anything other than a story about why rather than how. Was the author trying to make an astrophysical point? Or a biological one? Is there anywhere else in scripture where natural mechanisms are important to the theology, or indeed discussed? Is there anything about it that would make you think it is a scientific text? And if you are reading it to gain an understanding of the physical world (it does tell you a lot about human nature, though), then you are looking for a god of the gaps, one who will eventually be squeezed out, one who is too small.

It gets worse.

Cath made a point in the comments last time about trust, and the people you trust in. What happens when those you trust are shown not just to be wrong, but deceitful? Those people who told you that the creation story in Genesis is literally true, that there really was a global flood that killed every living being, that the Revelation is a literal account of the end of the world— and who make those things necessary items of faith —what do you do when you realize they were lying to you (intentionally or otherwise)?

Most people lose their faith.

Ah-ha, says the Creationist, then your faith wasn’t worth much anyway. And, doctrine is important! You have to believe the right things!

Now, doctrine is important, but it’s not (within limits) a deal-breaker. It’s something you learn as a believer: it’s not a prerequisite. And to be frank, Creationists seem to be more intent on forcing people to accept a theologically shaky set of beliefs than, say, loving them. Offering them forgiveness and a reason for living.

Let’s be clear here. These are people who tend to believe that you will suffer eternal torment if you’re not saved. Yet rather than offering acceptance and forgiveness of sins they’re insisting on a very narrow and theologically suspect interpretation of peripheral texts. This is a dangerous game, and if you’re going to play it you have to be damned sure of your ground, because the consequences are dire.

I’m certainly not attracted to the christian faith by people who insist on a literal interpretation of Genesis. Creationism is intellectually and spiritually bankrupt and I want no part of it. But, you know, there’s no harm in saying, ‘Yeah. I was wrong about that. Can you forgive me?’ Perhaps a little humility is required all round; and I’ll be first in the queue (because I could, after all, be wrong about everything).

So can faith and science co-exist?

Well, sure. But it will take people to think, which is hard, and realize exactly what each one says about itself. And what they don’t say about each other. Science explains the natural world. It tells us what we’re made of and how we, squishy biologicals that we are, fit together. Faith doesn’t. It can’t, just as science can’t tell us how to behave.

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Ontology #3

bq. And… Eva’s thoughtful comment deserves a response from me. This was going to be a comment, but seeing as it was quite on-topic for the title I gave it its own space.

I did wonder if posting this story and those pictures in this forum was appropriate. But seeing as I blog about a scientist’s life as well as science itself, and I’d already established a bit of a travelogue, I thought why not? I thought, briefly, that I might offend someone but that’s never stopped me before—seriously, I’m happy being carnivorous and I’m happy knowing where meat comes from.

Yes, there was a thrill in the tracking, the chase, and the kill (all of them). The adrenaline was pumping and—somewhat ironically, perhaps—I felt alive. I enjoyed it. But I wouldn’t have been doing it if I didn’t know that (a) we were controlling vermin and (b) someone was going to eat the animals we killed. (b) was more important to me than (a), for what it’s worth.

And this has stirred a few dormant neurons: Killing for food is fine by me (morally, I mean). But how about letting others kill animals for me, and me going to the butcher’s and saying ‘I’ll have that prime steak there, please’? In that case I’m not taking the responsibility for the animal, although I’m quite happy for the moral questions (and the gore and the effort) to be abstracted. Is that inconsistent?

Possibly. I’ve demonstrated that I’m quite able—and happy—to acquire my own food, even if it is fluffy and cute. But the great advance that we as humans have made is to sub-contract the business of staying alive to other people. We make an industry of agriculture, and with the economies of scale that brings, the freedom from the tyranny of the struggle for survival, we are free to do more productive things (like wasting time on Nature Network).

So, morally, that’s an interesting one. If you aren’t prepared to kill animals yourself for food, but will let others do it for you, should you eat meat? I’d say ‘yes’, because you’re participating in a social contract that allows you, frees you to do more interesting things, like discover black holes and evolution and the Haber Process and write blog posts about it.

But I’m willing to have my mind changed—it just won’t stop me eating meat. And before you ask, yes my girls know where food comes from: they’ve caught their own fish, they collect eggs from the chickens, and I’m (hopefully) taking Rachel out soon to shoot and cook her own rabbit.

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Ontology #2

Mount Tapi looked down on us as Mike guided the Toyota down the track and around rain-scarred switchbacks that are to even unsealed roads what three waterbaths are to a programmable thermal cycler. On such a journey you need complete faith in your driver. Hanging on to the door grip is optional, but recommended. Scree on one side and a sheer drop on the other, we kept an eye out for freshly turned soil. Wild pigs love to get at the roots of ferns, and there was plenty of sign that they’d been here recently, but none of us could see rustling in the gorse nor the black shapes against green grass we were looking for. A row of cream-tufted toetoe followed a stream down the side of the hill, and we watched for a fruitless few minutes before driving on.

Through the gate where we’d had to chase away the bullocks, and the valley widened; lush green grass and native scrub lay below us to our left — and the occasional rabbit loping for cover. Then Mike spotted a feral cat — yet another pest — and stopped, telling Andy to pull down the back seat and get out the .22. While he loaded the short magazine I watched the cat nonchalantly walk around the bluff and out of sight — probably after a rabbit. We drove on a little while, and I got out to open the next gate — and saw the cat sitting thirty yards away.

After the cat (whose day was probably completely spoiled by a round of hollow point up its arse) we saw that the hill below us was covered in rabbits. We drove through the gate and sat in the truck, the engine ticking over so that the sudden quiet wouldn’t disturb them. Andy tried shooting a few rabbits; but although we saw the earth kick up the rounds were falling short. He used to shoot competitively but there must be a world of difference between taking your time at a rounded target, concentrating on technique and breathing; and shooting down a hill with the wind gusting at an unranged target no more than a foot across.

We drove on a little further, to the next paddock. I took the rifle from Andy but while I was steadying my aim on the open door of the truck the two rabbits I had sighted decided they’d be better off in the scrub. I was about to give up when Mike pointed out another one, sat in the shade of a small tree, about 150 yards down the hill. Through the sights I could make its head and ears. I dropped the bolt; aimed about a foot above its head. Squeeze not pull — and the rabbit went down. Andy whooped and even Mike grinned approval. I half-ran down the hill, through a clump of manuka, and brought back Monday’s tea.

Mike #2 hadn’t been idle: while retrieving the dogs he’d managed to kill another pig and had brought it down off the hill. It had been a good haul for us: three eating pigs, one left on the hill; and a rabbit. Eventually we got back to the house, and I gutted the rabbit, feeding the innards to the outlaws’ dog. I had to remember how to skin a rabbit, not having done it in 20 years, but managed quite well:

Rabbit

That evening I dived in the pool, and then had a spa with a rather disappointingly average beer.

Richard and the Gee spot

Rabbit casserole

I left the carcass in the fridge overnight, but Monday morning I chopped the backbone and the legs, and rubbed salt into it. For full flavour I should have left it hanging in the tackle shed but I wanted to see if it was any good. I quartered eighthed a red onion and got a few sprigs of rosemary from the garden. I put these, with some black pepper, with the rabbit

Dressed rabbit

and poured on, ooh, about that much cheap chardonnay.

casserole

In the afternoon I poured over a pint of chicken stock and four or five cloves of garlic, and stuck it in the oven to casserole slowly. Because there were four of us to be fed I also seared four chicken legs and put them in the pot with the rabbit. I served it with crunchy roast potatoes and runner beans fresh from my mother-in-law’s garden.

The rabbit tasted a bit like chicken, but was denser and had a subtle, not at all gamey, flavour. We all enjoyed it, and with any luck I’ll be taking Rachel out one evening this week to get some more.

And the pigs? There is 3 kg diced pork in the freezer ready to be made into vindaloo at the end of the week, along with a rack of ribs; and 5 kg random pork that my brother in law wants to make into salami. The two Mikes have the rest.

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Ontology

Mike arrived early, which was a little bit of a surprise. But maybe that was because we had a late start—he arrived at five to six, before I had my boots on. I tried tying them up in the truck but it was too dark.

Pigs are a pest. They root in the soil for fern roots and wipe out entire hillsides. They’ll even take young lambs. They’re also bloody good eating: any one of these would be a good reason for traipsing onto a farmer’s land on a Sunday morning, and so we did.

I’d got up about twenty past five: put the kettle on and gone into the moonlit garden to dive into the pool. A couple of lengths and then I made a cup of tea; and a piece of bread with hazelnut spread (I fancied peanut butter but couldn’t find the crunchy, only the smooth). Got dressed, put some fruit and a salami roll and a bottle of water into a bag. Checked my email (this 13 hour time difference is a real bitch).

On the way to the Awatere valley we talked a little about guns and the laws surrounding them, and the differences in Australia, New Zealand and the UK. Mike was surprised that in New South Wales a firearms licence and a lockup cabinet are required for a paintball gun. We talked about tools and intent and the damage a hammer can do to a human if you’re really determined.

Rabbits, grey in the moonlight, ran alongside and in front of the Toyota as we sped up the valley. Even this far up, scraggy grapes hugged the valley sides, their chances of ripening this season less than minimal. We pulled over to let Mike #2 and Andy in the Nissan catch up, then took a left turn, heading towards the 20,000 acre block of scrub and pasture that was our playground today.

The sky lightened as we climbed, clouds cosseting the hills. In the lead vehicle, I had to jump out and hold the gates open: I could imagine Andy laughing at me although I couldn’t see him. Just after seven we parked the trucks at a gate in green pasture and all four of us piled into the Toyota: seven or eight dogs in the box and knives and rifles stowed safely. I took the opportunity to sort out my boots and we climbed further into the hills: Mike pointing out trees he’d planted 18 years ago and telling us about the third generation stewards running the farms into the ground and neither knowing nor caring about who would come after them.

Muttered curses against the low-lying cloud evaporated when we passed the gate guarded by bullocks and cowpats: behind us, the tops of the mountains glowed golden; a white sea lapping against their shores. Tapuaenuku, the footprint of the rainbow and nicknamed ‘The Watcher’ by Captain Cook, glinted in front of us.

We turned left below the lone pine (visible, it’s claimed, from the Christchurch road—thirteen miles away) and climbed up again, until the two Mikes decided it was a good place to stop and proceed on foot.

The dogs’ radio collars were affixed and we headed into the hills. Almost at once they started off; but they soon turned back and we saw the quarry they’d sniffed: four young deer on the fenceline, prancing back and forth. Heading back to the north east we crested a ridge, the dogs back and forth, sniffing and pissing and working off the pent-up energy of a week in kennels. We pointed out diggings to each other, and checked their freshness through the telescopic sights of the rifles.

Then a bark! and the dogs shot into a gully. We checked our knives and rifles and quickened our pace.

We stood on a ridge: across from me there was a gorse-filled gully, a minor ridge; and then a sheep track up the hill opposite. Mike pointed: it took me a few seconds to get my eye in but then I saw the black boar moving down the hill, Mike’s best dog, Pete, in pursuit. In an instant mike shouldered the .308 and let off a shot: I fancied I saw the dust kick up and the pig kept on. Another shot, but Pete was too close and Mike lowered the rifle.

Then a second pig appeared on the minor ridge, clear of the scrub. Mike handed me the rifle and told me to take it out. It took me a moment to adjust to the sight and I saw it in the crosshairs about 80 yards away—but then it ducked back behind the gorse. Mike was telling me to shoot it, and I saw the black shape hidden in the green. Almost instinctively I breathed out, squeezed the trigger, felt the recoil in my shoulder and smelled the cordite: the pig went down, motionless.

‘You got the bastard!’ — then Mike took the rifle from me, pulled the bolt and reloaded. We started across the gully to the corpse, still looking for the first pig. A third, we saw, was headed towards Mike #2 and Andy: but that was theirs; we had our own to chase. I reached my pig, made sure it was still, and dragged it into the open so we could find it again. Mike passed me and suddenly shouldered the rifle, firing again as the first pig broke cover, straight towards me. The pig turned, Pete still snapping at its heels. Mike stood next to me, and my right ear rang with the report: but the pig kept running.

I set off down the gully, the last shot still ringing in my ears and my heart pounding. It wasn’t yet eight and I’d shot a pig!

Below me, I saw four dogs barking and snapping at a grunting, squealing black shape. As I got closer I saw it was smaller than last year’s pig, but larger than the one I’d just shot. By the time Mike got there I already had hold of its rear leg and was reaching for my hunting knife. I hoiked the animal onto its back, and stabbed down at its throat, piercing the skin on the second attempt. I changed hands on the knife, and spread the pig’s foreleg, then drove down through the neck with my blade, into where I thought the heart should be. The pig’s blood mixed with my sweat: somewhere around me the dogs were were panting and growling but all I could think of was how to kill it as quickly as I could, and how not to get gored by its tusks.

Then the boar was still: I withdrew the knife, noting dispassionately how it and my hand were equally covered in blood and how I’d have to clean them both.

Mike took his own knife and started gutting the animal; I stood back, waiting for the pounding in my ears to subside. We counted three holes in the carcass: Mike had actually hit the animal three times with the .308 but done no major damage with any of them. It was reasonably young and lean, 80 lbs probably but not much fat. We decided to keep it for eating ourselves (last year, the pig I killed, being old and fatty, was sold to a butcher to feed the tourist trade). But when we cut open the one I’d shot we saw that it was no good for eating: my round had shattered the ribs and the backbone, and turned the internal organs to soup. No wonder the pig had dropped.

We stood on the ridge as the cloud moved back and up again, a surfless white sea. With the sun behind us a rainbow was trying to form in the valley’s cleavage, and slowly, after the barks and the shouts and the cordite and the gunfire, peace and birdsong returned. The sun was already hot, and I was beginning to regret leaving the sunblock in the truck.

Andy and I carried the two good carcasses back to the track, blood dripping down our shirts and into our pants, the animals wheezing through breathless throats with every jolt, to be picked up with the Toyota later. But by the time we’d got back to the fenceline on the ridge the dogs had taken off again, and were headed towards the road to Christchurch. Mike #2 was in pursuit: Mike #1 said he’d go and get the tracking gear and Andy and I set off down the valley to try to catch the dogs if they decided to come back that way.

We spent about two hours trying to retrieve the dogs: like a hammer or a rifle or a Gilson these are the tools of the trade, and you look after them: lose them and you lose your livelihood. Finally Andy and I headed back to the truck and met up with Mike #1: Mike #2 was chasing the dogs back towards where we’d left the Nissan.

The three of us piled in and started the drive back round the mountain, where—

but ah, it’s late, and tomorrow I’ll tell you what I had for dinner tonight.

Pig

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Onamalutu

Lewis Pass

(Onamalutu isn’t exactly where we went yesterday, but it is close enough and the title should please Eva.)

New Zealand is full of beautiful scenery. It’s offset somewhat by having Australians as neighbours, but few things are perfect.

Al Packer

Anyway, rather than abuse our livers in any of the 70+ vineries (and growing) in this single valley, we made use of the AWD Legacy we’d hired and shot up the North Bank Road, and hung a right off the unsealed road into the Richmond Range. At about 3800 feet we parked the car and set off to see if we could find Lake Chalice.

The lake is about 1500 ft down from the carpark, and we didn’t make it all the way (because the thing about going down is that you’ve got to come back up: and if one of you has a stuffed knee it gets a little difficult).

But it was a lovely walk, through the mist and out into sunshine, with an inordinate amount of

Agaric

and

mushrooms

and one or two

Foxglove

I managed to find a mountain peak and climbed walked up it

mountaintop

and the cloud lifted enough to see Lake Chalice:

Lake Chalice

On the way back we saw a familiar name,

Gee Street

and then again in the supermarket:

Gee Spot

A good day, enhanced by the surprisingly responsive handling of the Subaru Legacy (and Kate’s white knuckles). Tomorrow, I’ll tell you about the pig hunt and whether Henry’s Gee spot lives up to the hype.

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On holiday

Alom wanted me to write about the film (you’ll remember a few of us wrote about this previously): unfortunately the long, damp piece of internet string connecting NZ to the rest of the world is long, and, well, damp, so that might have to wait until I get back to civilization. Don’t think my brother-in-law will be too impressed if I knacker his download limit in the first two days. So, instead, I’m going to show off my holiday pics (if Jenny can, then so can I).

Somewhere in Middle Earth
Random beauty in NZ

New Zealand (‘Un Zud’) is full of random places of outstanding beauty. I’m fortunate that I have the chance to see them.

Murchison Falls
Murchison Falls

I’m staying with my sister- and brother-in-law, in a little place you’ve probably never even heard of1. It’s two blocks across from Wither Hills winery, set in 11 acres of what until last year was farmland, but is now grapes. Like the rest of Marlborough.

Wither Hills
Wither Hills, from the farm yet another vineyard

There are some chickens (bantams) still: I’ll be using their eggs to make tiramisu at the weekend.

Banta

The Wairau Valley is a floodplain, with fertile yet well-drained soil. It gives Marlborough wine its classic flavour and wine-making has really taken off since I started visiting here about eighteen years ago. It was popular even back then, but now you can’t move for sauvignon and chardonnay and pinot noir. Farmers complain about the loss of some of the best grazing land in the country, the olive groves are long gone and I worry about the long term consequences of such a monoculture (one virus, and the whole valley drowns…), but apparently people think it’s worth it.

Growing grapes is quite an art—or even a science—at least if you want to be able to make money from it.

Sauvvie

Each vine has to be pruned so that only one shoot grows vertically, and each year you allow an extra, fruit-bearing, horizontal branch to grow. This hopefully gives you healthy plants that produce good quality fruit: let them grow wild and you’ll get lots of fruit for sure, but it’ll make Australian poor wine. My outlaws have four hectares of vines, which is a drop in the ocean of Marlborough’s wine-making industry, but they figure it will pay off.

Massive six litre turbo diesel engines drive windmills—about one for every ten hectares—to invert the inversion layer on frosty days. In winter the entire valley thrums like the Iroquois in Apocalypse Now.

Windmill

So that’s where I am for the next eleven days. Tomorrow, hopefully, I’ll take the Legacy and drive up one of the mountains on the north side of the valley. Mike might take me pig-hunting at the weekend. I aim to do some work for the new gig and hopefully work on my book.

Oh, and I’m sure I could manage a glass of wine at some point, too.

Omaka GumsSauv Blanc

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On saying goodbye

As I write I can look across the Domain: beyond the NSW Art Gallery to the Telstra Tower and the other buildings of Sydney’s CBD. To my right, although I can’t see it from here, the Harbour Bridge lurks behind the Botanic Gardens and Parliament House. Grey clouds tussle with white for dominance: here and there they deign to allow glimpses of cerulean.

farewell to icons

It’s been three years and a month since I got off a plane at Sydney airport for the first time. It’s been quite a wild ride: new job, new friends, new blog(s); I’ve managed to avoid getting sunburnt but almost died from pneumonia. I’ve seen dolphins in the wild, huge spiders, pretty redbacks — but amazingly neither snakes nor funnelwebs. I’ve been amazed by the colorful bird life and caught in the rip at Surfer’s Paradise. I’ve landed exactly one fish and bought a didgeridoo.

Perhaps most importantly I’ve made a lot of new friends, and I know at least some of them will miss me as much as I miss them. They all have offers to stay in London.

Yesterday we took a ferry to Watson’s Bay. As I looked behind us, the city was covered in cloud, almost hidden from sight. But yachts still played under the shadow of Taronga Zoo and loud-mouthed scrotes celebrated 40th birthdays. As I leave Sydney, I simply hope that I leave as many good memories as I take.

City of Sails

Oh, and they still haven’t fixed the lifts.

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